After having a degustation dinner or two at the former Silo, it was exciting to finally make it to Joost’s new venture – Brothl. Operating on the same base values of sustainable and recycling, the restaurant has also mostly kept the same layout as its predecessor with a large communal table overlooking the kitchen, a series of small tables down the wall and a few outside tables.
The food menu is, as its name of the establishment suggests, all about broths. It is an intimate do-it-yourself affair with the choice of base broth – vegetable, seafood, chicken or beef – and a choice of additions, ranging from egg and vegetables to chickens feet and brisket. For the less creative or confused there are a selection of chef’s recommendations.
The broths themselves are cooked over long periods of time, 48 hours in the case of the beef, and made from the “waste” produce and bones from high profile restaurants Attica and Rockpool. Even the water is locally sources from rainwater tanks in the outer mountainous suburb of Monbulk.
My choice of the evening was the chicken broth with fennel, celery, ginger and poaches chicken (one of the recommendations) and an addition of house-made noodles. The broth is served in a cute ceramic pot with a side of bread and churned butter. First characteristic of note is that the broth is hot. Be prepared to wait a little for it to cool by nibbling on the bread, unless you’re into that sort of thing. The flavours were intense but not overpowering, somewhat like a rich chicken stock. The recommendation of fennel, celery, ginger were great additions, with the ginger added a mild welcomed bite, along with the tender poached chicken building on the base broth flavours.
The simple menu and its contents may not be everybody’s cup of tea (or broth!) but Brothl is well worth a visit for something different, new and sustainable.
(at Brothl)