Melbourne is a treasure trove of hidden gems and Clever Polly’s is an exciting recent addition. Even living in the area, it took nearly six months to notice it. In fact, it took crossing paths with one of the staff, a veteran of the cafe scene, to become aware of its existence.
Nestled amongst a block of hairdressers and small bars, Clever Polly’s is an interesting concept of a restaurant crossed with a boutique wine bar and bottle shop. Its design like that of a typical cafe with a large communal table, long bar and a scattering of small tables – and it could almost be seen as one on a passing glance if it weren’t for the giant wall of wine bottles.
Seating on the bar gave an intimate view of the small and simple kitchen, consisting of a few induction cooktops and a toasting oven, and a focal point of the shiny red hand-cranked meat slicer. This is matched by the simple of powerful food menu. There is a selection of cured meats, starters, mains, cheeses and desserts, each with a handful of items. The menu caters for all with a mix of vegetarian, seafood and meat options.
On this visit I went straight a main dish and opted for the Saltgrass lamb with beetroot, mustard greens and balsamic juice with a side of kipfler potatoes with chipotle mayo. My eyes have been opened to the world of beetroot. There is not one but three different style of beetroot in this dish – beetroot jam, pickled beetroot and golden beetroot. These unique flavours mix well with the tender and flavoursome lamb cuts, topped with a nice bite from the mustard leaves. The kipflers were a great side, cooked in duck fat and herbs and a spice kick, but not overpowering, from the chipotle mayo.
Intrigued by the dessert selection, I finished with the Ginger poached peach on a bed of lavender and honeycomb parfait, topped a slice of burnt honey meringue. Words cannot describe this tantalising flavour combination. The sweet parfait and meringue combined with the still sweet but slight hint of spice from the ginger poaching. Divine.
Coming from the children’s book Clever Polly and the Stupid Wolf – a story about a clever girl who outsmarts a wolf – Clever Polly’s really is a testament to its name, with its exciting and smart dining concept.